Reflections on Hiking NZ’s 3,000km Te Araroa Trail

April 23rd, 2015 • BY Margaret Hedderman

“Hole!” I shout.

“What?” My dad hollers back.

I hear the distinct stumble and thump of my 67-year-old father falling amidst the tussocks.

“Found it.”

The thing about walking through a valley of tussocks is that you never quite know where you stand. Literally. The ground is obscured by golden, silver, green, and red blades of grass up to your thighs (or higher—once they were above our heads).

 

And more often than not, “the ground” really isn’t the ground, but rather a small stream some two feet lower than where you’d placed your foot. Falling generally ensues.

I’d been told about the tussocks. Much like I’d been told about the mud, and the forests, and the mountains. Of course, I didn’t listen to a word anyone had to say about how difficult walking 3,000 km across New Zealand on the new long distance trail Te Araroa would be.

 

Dad and I set out from Cape Reinga, the most northern tip of New Zealand some five months ago. To say that the TA has been more challenging than I ever could have expected would be a gross understatement. But, I suppose that’s the point of any adventure—especially a thru-hike—to challenge you in ways you never thought possible.

 

With the end in sight, I can look back on those miles of mud, steep and treacherous climbs (and descents), and stumble after fall after trip with a sort masochistic pride. Because many of the trails are far rougher than anything I’d find back home in Colorado, the experience has opened my eyes, showing me an entirely different vision of backcountry and wilderness travel.

 

And, of course, spending five months in one of the most beautiful places on Earth makes most of those challenges worthwhile.

You can read more about Margaret Hedderman’s adventure, catch up, and see where she’s at on NewZealandOnFoot.com plus here on WomensMovement.com, when we covered her packing list for the 3,000km hike.

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